Thursday, September 17, 2015

NYFW SS 2016 Standouts

http://maneaddicts.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2015/09/DVF_Backstage_And_Show-117.jpg
The SS 16 shows were rife with new and old trends.The seventies trend is here to stay, as evidenced by the heavy hitters YSL, Gucci, Derek Lam, and Prada. Derek Lam and Pucci both took a decidedly understated approach to the trend; low slung flared trousers and patchwork suede skirts galore. Similarly, a boho-hippie-goddess look was curated by Chloe, Valentino, Etro, and Dries van Noten. A select few designers chose to stray outside of the box and deliver some deliciously fresh points of view for SS 2016.

Proenza Schouler wowed audiences with their bold monochromatic collection. The long cotton jacquard waistcoats and exposed shoulder ruffled dresses conjured daydreams of the Spanish Riviera and English boarding school runaways. This collection toyed with asymmetry and proportion; details included extra long sleeve cuffs, oversized bows, cropped flared pants, and bright cutaways at the waist and shoulder. The visual suggestion of clothes “peeling away from the body — like a banana”, said Hernandez, was key. The new generation of glamour is distinctly undone, loosened, and a little ambivalent.

The pièce de résistance is a decadent mid length coat in intermingling patterns of white polka dotted black silk and inky black rosettes stamped on a bright red silk. A plunging neckline is framed by dramatic squared shoulders, and cascades down into folds that showcase the duality of fabrics. One can nearly imagine an yesteryear society gal wearing this with a straw brimmed hat and sipping a julep. Later in the runway show, we see the black, white, and red palette marred by a pop of turquoise, followed by several netted, sheer dresses. Fresh, breezy, and easy. The last pieces of the show continue to play with texture; showcasing dresses constructed of chain linked feathers and hip framing peplums. Our takeaway: keep an eye out for tasteful shoulder exposure, a ruffle or two, and crisp, cropped trousers.

The next show we will discuss is Thom Browne, because how can you not? The runway was a bare-bones schoolhouse. The models were ornery Alice in Wonderland villains masquerading as British school children. The collection hinged on a uniform of gray-neutral coats, mid length pleated skirts, and crisp button downs. Each look was rife with prints and layers. The dreamy array of prints drew from Japanese illustration, geometric patterns, and florals. A multitude of textures and fabrics blend seamlessly into the overall uniform.


The models sported vertically spiked pigtails and open straw boater hats pulled low over their eyes. The lace up oxford shoes added to the punk nuances, along with the swipe of black lipstick. Our takeaway: crisp and polished details, any and every texture and print within a singular color spectrum, and an insolent look when your teacher reprimands you for chewing gum in class. Overall, a visually stunning presentation. It is rare to be truly transported by a fashion show, but Thom Browne manages to create a twisted, high fashion fantasy world that we never want to leave.
Jason Wu’s show notes for this SS 2016 runway show simply read, “glamour.” That is the perfect embodiment of Mr. Wu, and also his latests runway show. Where his previous collections have waxed conservative, this collection is a little rough around the edges, like an upper east side princess that’s been backpacking through South America for a few months. The color palette is provocative in shades of turquoise, burnt sienna, black, and silvery gray.

As for details, the slew of ruffles manage to be effortless and subtle. Hemlines don’t venture shorter than mid calf (tasteful, ladies!), and the colors feel young and fresh. The designer has shirked patterns for the most part, choosing to focus on pops of texture and volume instead. The collection revisits many key pieces: a leather shift dress and pencil skirt, simple camisole dresses, and boxy crop tops. These pieces are decidedly casual, yet special. And isn’t that the very definition of true glamour?

Monday, February 10, 2014

Inspiration: On Aura Tout Vu SS 14 Couture



On Aura Tout Vu is one of my favorite couture houses - they consistently bend the rules while putting out beautiful, ornate pieces. I worked with them often in Paris; a very sweet organization with an amazing showroom. They construct fantasy out of chiffon and beads; intricate swirls of hand-beading is their hallmark, and Spring's 2014 Couture show in Paris was no exception. The press release describes the collection as:

Melancholy shadows of dark spirits.
Lucioles mutant, undulate time and pearl the night.
White light pierces the body; diamond rivers punctuate the forms, frame the breath, and walk in the shadow of the night.
Dark osmosis between chiaroscuro nights, deceiving silhouettes of a mysterious dream.
The exquisite hour is needed…”

The finale of the runway show was when the lights dimmed and glow in the dark pieces were revealed. GLOW IN THE DARK.The overall feel is very galactic-military-nutcracker 3001 realness. I would translate this to daily wear by piling on the embellishments and statement necklaces... and if you can find that hannibal-glam face mask, even better.

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

superstitious

Catarzi for Asos wide brimmed hat, Zara coat, vintage blouse, Gap trousers, Aldo heels
ph. Nolan Gray Wiley 
 
Embracing the recent cold front in a cozy wool coat and hand-felted hat. While living in Paris, I learned that during the cold months it doesn't matter what you wear, as long as you have a stylish and well-fitting coat to cover it up with. I knew plenty of girls that just rotated a couple leather pants or jeans under their coat with a pair of Isabel Marant Dickers. I love the bright colors of the plaid on this one; rather than let the coat be the statement piece, I piled on 70's inspired maroons and oxblood. Next, I want to pair this coat with a 50s big puffy skirt.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Saint Valentin

Fille Amoureuse
Whether you've got a bodacious beau or you're part of Beyoncé's single ladies club, Valentine's day is still an awesome excuse to dress up! The cardinal rules are bright reds, pinks, and prints; choose a loud piece and plan around it. Dress up boyfriend jeans with an elegant chiffon blouse, a whimsical bag, and killer stilettos. A flouncy skirt takes an adorable cue from oxfords or pointed flats. Channel a svelte 70s vixen with figure-flattering wide legged dress pants and a cozy fitted sweater.

Top it all off with Viktor and Rolf's Flower Bomb (have you SMELLED this stuff? Liquid gold, I tell you) and some kitschy Lolita sunnies. If you've got a hot date, try cooking a romantic dinner at home, or a fun date to the bowling alley. If you're single, take yourself to see a play or out for cocktails with your ladies. Either way, don't forget to stop and smell the proverbial roses.

Valentine Vixen

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

yuki-onna


ph. Elias Theroux

I love all white outfits; they make such a louder statement than any other color. The absence of busy prints or colors fosters the effect of a blank canvas, highlighting accessories or just creating a unique aesthetic vision. You could also take it in another direction with white jeans, Nikes, and an oversized silk button down.

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

départ


ph. Nolan Wiley

assez vu. la vision s'est recontrée à tous les airs.
 assez eu. rumeurs des villes, le soir, et au soleil,
et toujours.
assez connu. les arrêts de la vie.  --o rumeurs et visions !
 départ dans l'affection et le bruits neufs.

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

infinite gray


ph. Gemini Tauberge

Monday, May 20, 2013

Lazy Day Inspø

Lazy Day

'Cause let's be honest... you're not feeling it (it being makeup and pants) 99% of the time. Embrace the schlump with arms flung open and a smattering of easy wardrobe essentials. 
1. Giant, cozy, and threadbare. The ultimate study in curated dishevelment.
2. I've been living in the coat version of this vest all winter. Completes an outfit so well. 
3. A luxe handbag makes everything better. Just ask the Olsens. 
4. For hiding your perpetual disaffected-ness/eye rolling.
5. GIVE ME THESE SANDALS. SOB.
6. & 7. To contemplate your mortality and write notes about shit to buy at Target.

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

soleil noir

 
ph. Elias Theroux
typical thursday night in Le Pompon basement with Fleur and Eli. 
Ya grrrrl is wearing: vintage top, American Apparel high rise shorts, Uniqlo tights, Zara boots//

Sunday, March 17, 2013

Sacre Coeur

 
vintage dress
 
Ph Darryl Richardson
 
Recently rediscovered my love for this vintage floor length dress that I thrifted in Florida a few years ago; it's such a strong statement that I don't bother wearing accessories or loose hair. These photos really capture the imposing and dignified nature of the Sacre Coeur, though I wish we had taken some of the sweeping views of Paris directly across from the church. At night you can look out and all you see are the lights of Paris for miles and miles.